DAY NINE– Main Trip Day Four

Bountiful beauty.  That really is the only way to describe the day.  Well the other thought would be... “It’s a Small World After All…are we at Disneyland?”  Can you guess where we are headed for today?

It was really tough leaving Bellagio and it’s classic and elegant style.  But alas, we bid arrivederci and hit the road headed for the Swiss Alps.

The drive was beautiful and it was amazing to see the distinct differences between the countryside of Italy slowly transform into the grandeur and breathtaking beauty of the hills of Switzerland.  The ride was suppose to take us about 5 hours but we managed to do it in 7 hours!  We had to stop several times…mostly to take in the fresh crisp air and soak up the views that enveloped us in a 360 degree panorama of Swiss charm and views that looked more like painted canvas backdrops than reality.

The practical landscape of Italy progressively morphed into impressive vistas and daredevil winding roads nestled tight against the mountain passes, affording everyone from every seat stunning views of waterfalls, higher than high mountain peaks, snow capped rugged mountain tops lightly dusted in fresh powdery snow and lush green pastures of green, speckled with yellow flowers.  Even the architecture has changed into more carefree small alpine cottages that were dwarfed by the size of land that played host to that dwelling.

We stopped at a pass along our highway called SIMPLON PASS where we stopped and our guests indulged in fine cheese, meats, bread and wine as they enjoyed the scenery.  As for Helga and I, we chose instead to eat alone and enjoy our first real Swiss-German meal…Bratwaurst and Polenta with vegetables.  Helga enjoyed eine kleine beir, while I stayed on course with my cappuccino.  Now here was a distinct difference…I should have also had a beer…no one makes cappuccino like the Italians…

We arrived in a little town called Tasch which is the last point before Zermatt where motor vehicles are allowed.  So we said goodbye to our coach and boarded a trolley-type train for the 12 minute journey to Zermatt.  Even that short ride was filled with spectacle and a hushed anticipation from our group.

Finally…Zermatt.  We all have images of the perfect alpine village.  That’s Zermatt.  Alpine chalets, with flower boxes filled with the brightest red flowers nestled against the natural dark wood grains of the chalet itself, lining each and every balcony from the ground floor to the top.  Horse drawn carriages whisking away guests from the Bahnhoff (train station) to their respective hotel.  The town is clean and the air is crisp…especially since no motor vehicles are allowed.  Everywhere dart electric carts conducting business as usual.  While many chose to catch a ride to the hotel…a group of us chose to walk the 5 minute stroll through the town to our next hotel.

And there she stood…the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof.  And Grand she was.  Another gorgeous property which alpine charm right down to the balconies adorned in flower boxes filled with bloom.  I noticed that our entire group was standing on the grand steps in the entrance to the hotel, but they were all gaping and gawking in the opposite direction…what were they all looking at?  I turned to look in their direction…and I think my jaw hit the floor.  The Matterhorn!  WOW!  Impressive…massive…and fortunately enough for us…visible!  Apparently, the last 14 days have had the Matterhorn masked and enveloped in blankets of clouds making it virtually invisible to the inhabitants of this village.  But not today…today she stood majestic and proud against a crystal blue clear sky, welcoming us to our next destination.

The first thought that came to mind was…DAMN…Disney designers were meticulous with their design and construction of the “other” Matternhorn…but they captured ALMOST every last detail…what they could never capture is the enormity of this natural wonder.

Our group settled in for the evening with the rest of their day at leisure.  Helga and I found a local hang out for another beer and another cappuccino…we then indulged in some Swiss Chocolate that literally melted in our mouths and we both fought off the urge to just ravage our small purchase…instead we both graciously left a few pieces alone…for later!

Then, as usual, we walked the distance to the two different events we have planned for tomorrow to judge distance, walking time and difficulty and make sure we knew what to expect.  Our idea of a quick fact finding tour turned into a 2 hour exploration of the town…its small streets…soaking in the charm and truly enjoying the crisp clean cold air.  It really wasn’t “cold” as much as it was crisp…pure…and dare I say intoxicating….it just begged you to inhale as deeply as you could, never wanting to exhale.

I found myself laughing alone, because I had the feeling like I’ve been here before…I felt very comfortable as if I had been here many times before.  But at the same time, I felt like something was missing.  (Of course I wish Brandon was with me…that’s a given…each foot I travel so far has been taken with the wish my son was with me.)  And then I figured it out….I was missing my ski gear and clothing!  This was every little ski village across the US that tries to emulate the Swiss Alps!  If only I had my warm ski clothes, boots, poles and skis…I think I’d make more sense of my visit here!

Zermatt is a wonderful mix of local residents, mixed with tourist traps that were so inviting, you would never know you were spending your life savings.  Restaurants and small shops hide cautiously along the main street.  And all around you….the protective mountains and alps keeping watch over you as you take respite in the small valley.  Magical to say the least.

The rooms here are small but quite comfortable.  Nicely appointed rooms with one significant difference.  The beds are traditional Swiss beds….this means they are lower to the ground with a futon-type mattress…dense and thin, with the coziest duvet in plain white.  Two fluffy down pillows beckoned to me…time to sleep…soon…but for now more work.

We ended our evening by creating and distributing our daily informational letter for our guests.  The lobby was quiet…I didn’t even see one of my guests!  All out exploring, or enjoying the coziness of their private rooms.  I took one final moment to stand on my balcony and gaze at the majestic mountains prepared to protect me as I sleep…adieu Zermatt…well at least for today.

DAY EIGHT – Main Trip Day Three

Bene.  Molto Bene!

Another amazingly perfect day here in Bellagio and the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni.

And for those of you who were hanging on by a thread…I opted for the Musk Bath Foam!  I’ve never taken a bubble bath with thick mountains of bubbles before…very relaxing…and silly childish fun too!  Yes…I put the foam on my head and create a bubble wig….aw…come on…like you’ve never done that!

I really don’t have much to share about today, because we gave our group the entire day off…a full day at leisure at this Grand property…and the weather was a gift from God…perfect in every way!   Some opted for spa treatments, some went shopping, some slept until noon and had a lazy day while others explored the nearby Villa’s and surrounding towns…and some…did it all!  Bottom line, everyone was BEYOND content and happy, and soaking up every bit of luxury afforded to them.

As for me…AH!  No such thing as a day off!  Helga and I started at 8 AM with breakfast and made ourselves available to the guests by sitting in the Grand Hall for two hours…just so that we were accessible to them.  They were all having such a great time…no one came to visit!  Our driver, Alesandro, was the happiest of all.  No excursion meant he truly had the day off.  We caught a glimpse of him sunning at the Grand Pool…can you picture it?  A robust Italian man, in Italian “swim wear”…soaking up the sun and enjoying the “view”…and I’m not talking about the lake of surrounding villages….now you understand why I chose NOT to take a picture of that very funny sight.  Helga and I have been laughing all day about it.

Anyway…after being shunned by our guests (and gladly so) we strolled through the local streets and just explored the many nooks and side streets and being both adventurous, we strayed from the “tourist” path and explored the more “residential” side of Bellagio.  I cannot explain how “bene” it is to have my own personal guide who speaks three languages fluently and great knowledge of all these places…and a new friend whom I’m sure will be in my life until the last sunset.

We had lunch … “local” style…basically a local “deli” where they prepared fresh cut meats delicately placed between two slices of the freshest bread rolls, sliced with the precision and artistry only a local owner of the Almancari shop can do.  This was followed by a wonderful café lakeside, under a “sky” of lush green grape vine leaves to shade us from the summer sun.

And then…back to business….we game planned tomorrow’s adventure…we leave Bellagio, Italy and head to Zermatt, Switzerland by way of the town of Tasch.  Zermatt strictly prohibits motorized vehicle, so Tasch is known as the “parking lot” of Zermatt…you park there and take a “trolley train” into Zermatt.  I’ll write more once I experience it for myself.

The ride should take about 5 hours from here…so we’ve planned stops along the way, and two of our guests have ordered meats, cheeses and cookies to share on the bus ride.  I provided the cups, plates, napkins and trash bags.  Hmmm…I guess I have just confirmed my station in life…well at least on this trip.

And now it’s evening…I have to share about the Trio of musicians that consisted of a piano player, stand-up bass player and a violinist...all dressed in formal wear...playing songs from Vivaldi?  NO...try PINK, BEATTLES, MAROON 5, MADONNA and more...it was hysterical!

As I reflect on my last evening here in Bellagio…I am confident that I will return.  Maybe not to stay at this Grand Hotel, but to visit the town that is rich with artistry in every little shop, or class as in the high end shops, or history with the Villa’s and villages, or stories and tales whispered by the old walls that suspend each fairy tale building or surround the city as a protector from the water.  Bellagio….I will return.

This is also my last night in Italy.  My past previous experiences have made Italy a destination that was never one I would ever plan on including on any worldly adventure.  However, this visit, mandated by my tour group, has left me with a renewed sense of intrigue…a new sense of Amore…and a definite desire to return. 

Molto bene….Gratzie, Italy….arrivederci!

DAY SEVEN – Main Trip Day Two

And God smiled upon me and the group today…well every day, but especially today!  You’ll see why…

Okay…the only other thing more amazing than falling asleep in this Grand Hotel’s bed is waking up in this Grand Hotel’s bed!  And to be honest, I can’t believe I’m even telling you how wonderful the beds are…but they are INCREDIBLE!  As I pulled myself out of the warmth of my personal cocoon, I found my feet place themselves on the “foot towels” the maids had put down at the sides of the beds…nice touch.  The shower was like a waterfall…talk about being rejuvenated!

As usual, breakfast will start my day…and since I like to be prepared for the day, I also try to be the first to eat so that I can address my group’s issues as soon as they occur.  So after wandering down towering halls lined in marble, I finally found the restaurant where breakfast was being served.  Now I have to say…if I didn’t know that I was in Italy, I would have sworn I was eating in a room at Buckingham Palace!  AMAZING!  Just so you know, I was so embarrassed at the thought of taking a picture of the room, I apologize, but you’ll have to wait until tomorrow to see it…I’ll get there REALLY EARLY to get a shot of it.

We started our day out at 10:00AM and amazingly, all but 2 guests decided to go on the city tour of Como…so off we went…22, Helga and me.  As I said before…God smiled on us, because what started as a slightly overcast sky has now turned into the most beautiful wash of blue above our heads…a calming breeze to keep the temperature comfy and the sun providing the most stunning lighting effects on the ravishing green landscape.  As they would say here in Italy…PERFECTO!

The drive was so beautiful, the group didn’t even notice or mind the hour and twenty minutes it took us to finally arrive in Como.  Our first line of business was to board our private boat for a tour of Como…on the lake.  Our “local” tour guide was Roberta and she delighted and entertained the group, providing the rich history (and gossip) of each villa we passed.  Ya know…I’m sure here Villa is translated appropriately, but as an American…when I think of Villa, I think of a place that is petit and quaint.  But here, especially along the shores of Como and Lecco, these Villas are palacial…something exactly like the mansion (or villa) from the movie…The Sound Of Music.  Stunning!  There is even one that is so hidden and nestled on the lake shore down a deep wall of hillside, that the only way to get there is by funicular!

And yes…this is where George Clooney has his private Villa.  And yes…he is in town today.  How do we know?  The paparazzi are a-buzzing.  Apparently, he is out on his motorcycle visiting nearby villages…so no Clooney sightings today…BUT he is in town.

We only saw about 1/20^th of the lake shore of this massive lake that is really three lakes that connect…in the shape of an upside-down “Y”.  Our hotel is right on the shore where all three lakes meet.  And even though we only saw a small portion of it, the list of impressive names throughout history and today who have Villa’s here is nothing short of a “Who’s Who” list of amazing people…and interesting people.  Sophia Loren, Clooney of course, the world’s first ballerina who went on point, Versace…and the list goes on.  Basically…the European playground for the worldly rich and powerful.  Even the most famous Villa in the world, Villa D’Este (voted the number one Villa in the world by Forbes or Fortune magazine) is home to an annual meeting of heads of state from around the world.

Once back to the city of Como, the group began to split up…some went on their own and another group stayed with Roberta for additional history of this magnificent town…rich in history from the Roman Era through the ages.  It’s amazing to be somewhere that has stood for centuries…preserved so that we too can stand there now.  Kinda sends a chill down your spine at certain spots.

Helga and I left the group to explore as we enjoyed lunch at a “Self Service” restaurant.  Translated…a cafeteria…but this was no cafeteria that I’ve ever been to.  Yes....food is displayed and you choose what you want…but everything is amazingly fresh and prepared right in front of you…and of course I had to include dessert….Tiramasu!  It was so good, I swear I’m coming back to Como…JUST for the tiramisu!

We made arrangements for the group to return to Bellagio via Hydrofoil…a high speed boat that rides the lake on a large “wing” that cuts through the water….travel time….43 minutes!  And an incredible view of the lake….

Tonight, the group has plans for dinner at Villa D’Este and they will travel via private boat.  After a few hours of allowing them time to prepare, I escorted them to their boat.  This was a wonderfully unique opportunity for everyone.  Straight out of a movie…private boat, captained by a local Italian fisherman…simple and plain, escorting these sophisticated American’s to an enchanting evening at a world renown Villa….the topper was the sun painted across the lake surface in a shimmer of gold!  Magnifico!

By the way…I’m left speechless…I’ve already expressed to you how incredible this “Grand” Hotel is.  And you’ve surmised by now (I hope) that my clients are en par with this type of facility.  So it was even more impressive to me tonight to overhear a conversation between two of my more affluent clients when they discussed …. “I’ve never stayed in a hotel as nice as this ever in my life!”  WHOA!  I have achieved a success beyond a success!  I’ve actually been able to beat the expectations of my clients!  WOO HOO!  And all of my gushing about this place is now justified….bravo.

The nice thing about my groups outing is that it allows me to “technically” have a night off.  Helga stayed in Como to visit with friends whom she doesn’t get to see often and I gladly escorted my group through the evenings events.  She missed the last boat to Bellagio, so her friend needs to drive her in…yes…the same hour and twenty minutes it took up to drive out to Como.  So our dinner plans together were cancelled, but we shall meet later tonight to discuss tomorrow’s adventures.  Actually, we need to triage our plans because the group has decided to cancel our originally planned outing to Lugano, and have opted for a day at leisure instead.  And that means a bit more planning to offer our guests options and ideas and the facilities in which to make personal plans.  Should be an interesting day tomorrow.

As a note:  today is June 21, 2010 and is the longest day of the year.  The locals seem to make a big deal about this…as I write to you, it is 9:54 pm and just now getting dark!  Whoa…that was one long day.  And now it comes to a close….my group is at dinner…Helga is on her way…

As for me…tonight…I do some CTE work…eNewsletters and all….complete my blog entries and upload yesterday’s blog…and perhaps indulge in a little pampering for myself.  I never do this, but being here it seems appropriate…a bath in my massive and deep tub…my only tough choice is…do I use the Rose Water they have provided, or do I opt for the Musk Bath Foam?  Hmmm….decisions, decisions….

DAY SIX – Main Trip Day One

Heaven and Hell….that’s the title of today’s blog.  ARGH!

So all started as usual…drag my butt out of bed, get ready and out for breakfast…new staff today.  It’s Sunday and if it wasn’t for the many wonderful texts I got from home, I would have forgotten it was Father’s Day!  YAY for me!

Today is the transition from “Pre-Trip” to “Main Trip.”  We say goodbye to Luisa and Mauricio and meet our new Tour Manager and Driver; Helga and Alesandro.  We’ve become so attached to Luisa in such a short time, it’s hard to imagine the next 10 days without her.  We are also expecting the arrival of two more couples.

Part of the “hell” for today is a carryover from yesterday…RE-DO the entire trip…starting NOW!  So we delayed our departure to Como until Noon.  I feel so bad for my two couples coming in because I know how they will be feeling…exhausted, run over and ready just to find a shower and a nice bed.  But karma has its role to play…the Sunday morning drenched Milano with sheets of rain.  We should have just left as we had originally planned.  Oh well.  My next two couples arrived early and we were able to get them into other peoples rooms to relax and wait until noon.

And now I meet…HELGA!  First of all…I’m guilty of associating the name Helga with a mean and robust German woman.  She couldn’t be further from that.  She is the quintessential German MaMa…couldn’t be lovelier.  Luisa did the transition for me so I’m already in great graces with Helga and we hit it off very well.  Alesandro speaks no English at all…so this is going to be fun.  They were kind enough to take me by bus (two blocks) to my hotel so I could load up my bags and supply of water directly onto the bus versus walking with it through the rain.  Gratzie!

We collected our group, currently 20 guests strong, and headed to Como.  While everyone enjoyed the scenery, I was in the back of the bus doing administrative paperwork to make our registrations at future hotels seamless and smooth…I worked the entire hour and a half drive.

The countryside was beautiful.  The last 20 minutes had us driving through this incredibly narrow and almost nauseating winding road.  OH OH…yup…my group leader was starting to see red as she put the puzzle pieces together…yes, this is the only road in and out of our hotel…

Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni is situated in an old fishing village on the shores of Lake Como.  Actually, Lake Como is comprised of three different lakes (legs) and where they all meet is where we will be staying.  The best of all three lakes are visible from our Hotel.  We are not staying in Como actually, but the town of Bellagio.  And yes…it is as grand as the name sounds.  The lakes are hidden in a valley, so at all points around the lake, you are surrounded by mountains.  Lush, green, majestic mountains.  So needless to say, the only way in is to descend from the top of the mountain, deep into the lake valley below.

Well…this meant that Helga and I would spend the next 4 hours, re-routing and providing multiple options for our guests.  We will stick with our original plans, but offer alternatives for transport, like a hydrofoil boat that will take them to the city of Como.

Luckily, everyone is absolutely engrossed by this facility.  Seriously…this is the closest I have come to Shangri-la.  It is rightfully called the “Grand Hotel.”  You see the pictures, but trust me…they do no justice and there is a magic that envelopes you as you walk through the halls of this magnificent structure or stroll the quaint streets of the village.  Rain or not, it is heaven on earth.

Tonight we have our Cocktail Reception and Welcome Dinner for all 24 guests…who are for the first time, all together to start their 10 day adventure.

The next piece of adventure was to arrange for the group to have dinner at VILLA D’ESTE…a HIGH HIGH HIGH Class hotel and restaurant across the lake.  The only way to get them there (ya know, without taking the bus through the winding roads) is by private boat.  So after some logistical acrobats, it’s done.  Tomorrow night they will all go by private boat to Villa D’Este for dinner…while Helga and I will have Serbelloni to ourselves.  You know the rule…if you have to ask how much…you can’t afford it?  Well…I can’t afford it.  But I’m really okay with that…I would much rather explore and enjoy my personal Shangri-la.

Our cocktail reception was set in this grand lounge with full glass picture windows exposing the lake and mountains in the distance as if it were a finely painted canvas.  Lavish, lush, elegant and royalty are words I would use to describe the room and service.  The guests dressed in semi-formal attire, which is mandatory at this Grand Hotel.  Dinner was AMAZING…started with Mozzarella in a thick tomato soup garnished with a delicate trim of vegetables, followed by a Veal filet and roasted potatoes.  A beautiful fruit tarte that was so beautiful you dared not eat it (but I did) rounded out the meal followed my café and assorted dessert bites.

Helga and I decided to eat alone away from the group…which turned out to be so very nice.  We got to know each other better and have strengthened our bond…which will be important seeing as our next few stops are going to require that.  We topped our evening off with a glass of champagne and toasted the end of a successful, albeit, stressful day.

By the end of the evening, we had everything in place for tomorrow’s adventures and everyone was buzzing with excitement and delight to be here in such a wonderful place.

Then there was my room.  OH…I could live here forever…YES…in a hotel!  Exquisite!  And the best two spots in my room are the bathroom (I know…I don’t get out much) and my window overlooking the village and church tower.  I used to think I was well educated and well travelled, but how naïve am I?  They have towels and linens and items throughout my room that I haven’t the slightest clue what to do with!  I know they all have a purpose, but for what?  I have no idea…I’ll just pretend I don’t need it.

I don’t even want to tell you about the bed…let’s just say….as my head touched the pillows…….